It was 1968 and although the world was becoming a little more tolerant of couples “living in sin” ( living as a married couple without being married), my Mother was quite unbending in her beliefs of what was acceptable and what was not.

My older brother had gone off to live in Western Australia with his girlfriend. The rest of the family were sworn to secrecy as Mum said he was an embarrassment to the family and it was not to ever be mentioned that he was living a life of sin. ( in Mum’s eyes anyway).

I was particularly close to this brother and it upset me somewhat that Mum could put her own thoughts about her standing in the community above the happiness of others.

I had been living with my fiance for over a year, unbeknown to Mum.

She had no idea that we were living together as I had a small flat just around the corner plus we lived in a town about 3 hours drive from the family home.

My older sister also had numerous lovers, all kept secret from our Mother.

The time soon rolled around to my wedding day. In the lead up, Mum was giving me obscure advice as to how to approach the wedding night. She told me that my new husband would demand certain things and be prepared for it. I nodded and it was all I could do to keep a straight face.

I asked her when my brother would be arriving for the wedding, she was very non commital and said she wasn’t sure.

There was no internet back then so it was quite difficult to contact others who lived far away.

The preparations all went well. All of the people my mother deemed suitable were invited to the wedding. I had very little say in it, but I suppose I was lucky that I was allowed to invite three of my friends. My poor fiance was only allowed two as well as his parents. Mum did not really want to invite them as she was worried what her friends would think about sitting next to Germans.

I cringe when I think back to that time .

How different it is now.

About an hour before the wedding, I was still looking out the window expecting to see my dear brother arrive when Mum took me aside.

He is not coming, she told me. I have forbidden him to come. I will not have him bringing shame on our family she said.

This news was like a dagger through my heart.

How could she be so horrible to her own son. After all, he was just following his heart.

From that day on, I looked at Mum in a different light. She had always been very judgemental of others, but this cut deeply into my soul.

I somehow made it through the ceremony. It was just a blur and I could not help but miss my dear brother. In fact it totally spoilt what would have been a great day.

I really could never forgive Mum. Karma came to bite her though as my younger brother “had ” to get married a few years later. There was no hiding the fact that he had been a naughty boy.

Thank goodness attitudes have changed.

I had the best 70th birthday ever.

I was lucky to be able to travel to Japan 10 days before I turned 70.

What a great trip it was. So many beautiful things to see and do.

The autumn leaves were displaying their brilliant colours and the weather was close to perfect.

Never in my wildest dreams did that I think I would ever be able to travel overseas again, let alone to Japan

However, the opportunity arose and it was with great excitement that I packed my gear, organised my trip and off I went.

The lesser known islands of Hokkaido and Kyushu are places not to be missed. The people, the food and the culture are amazing.

The pristine natural springs, the towering mountains, the shinto shrines ,buddhist temples and the super friendly , helpful people of Japan make a visit to this country a wonderful experience.

To wander slowly about the many little towns and villages is indeed a pleasure. One feels quite safe, even a woman alone. There does not seem to be any sign of muggers or pickpockets.

There were no homeless people seen , at least not where I went. Maybe in the big cities there are, but it just does not seem to be a place where people are homeless.

The streets and countryside are free from any litter. Drivers have manners and adults and children all wait patiently in line in shops and at attractions.

Hotel staff are at the visitors beck and call. Bowing with respect to every guest who enters their hotel. Beds are laid out for sleeping, bags carried to the rooms , smiling faces with no expectations of anything more than a thank you.

The food. Wow, the food is amazing. Every chef in every little cafe or bar will go out of their way to please the diner.

Foods such as Ramen, fish prepared every way imaginable, pork, chicken, beef veges in all shapes and form. A gastromical delight.

I cannot believe how much food I consumed, but did not feel over full or bloated. It is all very natural, no preservatives at all and freshly prepared.

Sure, there are MacDonalds and KFC but why would anyone want to go there when all this other food is available.

My favourite meal was Ramen. This soup like meal has an amazing depth of flavour. I really need to learn how to make it. Full of soupy goodness, with nododles and some kind of meat, whether it be seafood, chicken or pork, does not matter. All were delicious. All left me wanting more.

Another favourite were the Yakatori dishes. Deep fried chicken other meat or just vegetables in a light crispy batter .. Truly amazing.

I had a misguided idea that all I would be eating was sushi and sashimi. How wrong I was.

Ice cream, in many different flavours, lingonberry, roasted green tea, matcha, mango or just plain milky were equally is good as any I have ever tasted.

Yes, Japan is an amazing place.

I actually turned 70 halfway between Haneda and Sydney. The airline staff knew it was my birthday and I was given a nice roomy seat in an exit aisle as a business class upgrade was not available due to a fully booked flight.

The cabin crew, two rather nice young men brought me champagne in a proper glass and also a set of Qantas pyjamas.

What a birthday to remember.!

The Land of the Rising Sun

The real name for Japan, in Japanese , is Nihon. This means Sun Origin and can be loosely translated into English, as the Land of the Rising Sun. Recently I had the pleasure of participating in a nature and outdoors tour of the Japanese Islands of Hokkaido and Kyushu.

I believe these Islands are not so well known to the average tourist, especially the over 60’s.

I , for one,was unaware of the hundreds of attractions available to be explored.

What an amazing trip. I was absolutely blown away by the sheer beauty of these magical places.

Flying from Sydney to Haneda, Tokyo was a pleasant nightime flight,so I was able to sleep. The time difference between Australia and Japan is only 2 hours so there is no jet lag associated either way on the trip.

Hokkaido.

Arriving on Hokkaido, at the small town of Memanbetsu, I was happy to meet with my guide.

Kimi, was a walking encyclopedia on all aspects of this particular tour.

Luggage all sorted, the journey to the Shiretoko Peninsular was an incredible insight into a place I never dreamed existed.

From the magestic mountain peaks, capped with snow, to the beautiful lakes, especially Lake Tofutsu which was teeming with birdlife, every kilometre offered something new.

There are many onsen (hot springs) in Hokkaido. In fact all of Japan has many thermal areas and onsen are an integral part of the Japanese lifestyle.

All too soon I arrived at my hotel, the Kiki Shiretoko Natural Resort . The friendly, smiling staff went out of their way to please.

After settling into the sumptuous room I then proceeded to the dining area where

a sumptuous buffet was awaiting this hungry traveller.

There was no end to the amount of foods on offer.

From traditional Japanese food , to western style, there was something for everyone.

Kimi advised me to have a hot spring bath and a long sleep as the next day would be the start of my sightseeing tour.

Day one and after breakfast, which was also a sumptuous buffet, the Nature guide arrived and we were off on the first hike in the World Heritage Shiretoko National Park.This was quite an easy hike for anyone without mobility issues. There is a shorter course, wheelchair friendly, where some of the beautiful lakes can be viewed. If you have mobility issues, do not let that deter you from visiting Hokkiado.

There was a series of five lakes, nestled beneath the towering mountains. Each and every lake was absolutely stunning. Birdlife abounds as do brown bears at certain times of the year. There are red foxes and sika deer. Fish can be seen jumping to catch unsuspecting insects who land on the tranquil waters.

In autumn the bears are preparing to hibernate so are rarely sighted. If a bear is sighted, the tour has to return to the starting point, report the bear sighting and the park is closed.

Hikers are briefed on what to do if confronted by a bear. The main rule is to stay calm and retreat slowly.

I have my doubts that I could remain calm if a 600kg bear, galloping at 30 k’s an hour was heading my way. Luckily I need not have worried.

The name Shiretoko derives from the Ainu (indigenous people of Japan) phrase siretok, meaning “end of the earth.

Shiretoko is located on the most northeastern point of Japan.

Shiretoko is home to rare seabirds such as the speckled guillemot and Stellers sea eagle and sea lions, the white tailed eagle and other migratory birds.

A rich eco system, with majestic mountains and coastal cliffs created by Volcanic eruptions. Drift Ice appears in wintertime and there are tours out onto the ice.

The next day found me hiking through the Shiretoko National Park, right next to the World Heritage Park. This hike was a little more challenging and not suitable for those with mobility issues.

The goal was to spot as many animals as possible. Red fox and Sika deer abounded. I saw woodpecker made holes in the trees, small birds and many deep scratchings on large trees. These were bear scratchings. Bears marking their territory. Luckily the bears were all out at the time and did not appear to ask what we were doing in their living room.

This park is also home to the Blakiston’s Fish Owl. The largest living species of Owl. Unfortunately the Owls were hiding on that particular day.

The hike ended at lunch time, so after a lovely lunch, in a quirky little cafe, we once again set out. This time to see a waterfall on the very edge of the massive cliffs in the national park. The trek to the waterfall was absolutely beautiful. We sighted and got very close to many Sika Deer and lots of birds.

Back to the hotel again to recharge the batteries and have another delicious meal in a lovely little seafood cafe.

Night Time and another tour, by car, to do some night animal spotting. Plenty of deer and foxes, but the elusive Blakiston’s Fish Owl stayed away.

Might have to go back again to spot one of those.

The third day was the last on beautiful Hokkaido. I saw salmon jumping upstream to spawn and then die. Lots of salmon in pristine waters. Very easy to view. A meal at an Izakaya (japanese pub) and another ride through the countryside to Nakashibetsu to catch a plane to Kyushu.

A stop off at

Lake Matsu and a meal of Teshikaga ramen were also enjoyed. Ramen is a wonderful dish, noodles, veg, some meat and a broth that is so delicious it is worth bottling.

Hokkaido has so much to offer us over 60’s. A positive wonderland of scenery, foods and hot springs.

The hot spring are said to be very beneficial to one’s well being. Full of pristine, mineral laden water that can only do good to the bather.

Kyushu

I caught the plane from Nakashibetsu back to Haneda and then connected with a flight to Oita, Kyushu..

Here I was met by another guide. Kate was to be my guide for the next two days.

From Oita we travelled by car to the beautiful city of Beppu, in the Oita Prefecture.

Beppu is the famous geothermal city on the Island of Kyushu. More onsen water gushes out here than anywhere else in Japan. Of course, not all springs are suitable for bathing in. The Hells are way too hot for that.

Accomodation in Beppu was Beppu Onsen Hotel, a Ryokan, traditional Japanese hotel where one sleeps on a Futon.

Another good sleep and I awoke to start the next stage of my tour.

First stop was a local market, mainly food and a few trinkets. The array of foods available is incredible. There is no shortage of anything.

On to the amazing Beppu Boiling Hells. First up, Chinoiķke Jigoku, the Blood Hells, named because of the blood red colour of the springs. Set in a picturesque location with a waterfall on one side and heavily treed woods on the other. The colour of the pond is incredibly red. There is also a foot bath which is quite a pleasant temperature and a must have after a walk around the hells.

Umi Jigoku , Sea Hell was next up. This geothermal pond was an amazing shade of cobalt blue. Temps of 78C meant no feeling this one. There was also a smaller red pond here and a clear water pond

covered with beautiful lotus lillies. The strong leaves of the lotus plants are big and strong enough to carry a small child.

On to Oniishibozu Jigoku, the Monks Head Hells. This area had many boiling mud pools. The mud bubbles which emerge from the pools look just like shaven heads of monks, hence the name.

After another foot bath I was treated to lunch, cooked by the steam of the boiling thermals.

The little cafe where lunch was taken, had wooden like ovens in which steam arose from a tapped hole in the ground.

The steamed food was delicious and according to the guide, very healthy.

Travelling away from the hells and into the countryside to the rural area of Tashimunosho. I travelled through ancient rice paddies and rural areas where there was an abundance of small farms. Rice, wheat , daikon radish and all manner of veggies were grown. The farms are very small but obviously produce a lot of veg and such.

A little further on and I arrived at the coastal town of Matama. This was where I witnessed the amazing sunset. Many people flock to the area to photograph these sunsets. It was well worth the trip.

Later on another perfect meal at an Italian restaurant. Who would have thought.

A new day and a new guide, Osaka was just as pleasant and helpful as the previous two guides. All are veritable walking encyclopedia with a vast knowledge of Japan, the myths, culture and foods.

Time to move on from Beppu.

A trip on the Sea Gaia 7 express train to Noreoka and then a taxi to Takachiho in the Miyazaki Prefecture.

Takachiho, steeped in Japanese mythology. The site where the legendary Sun Goddess Amaterasu hid herself in a dark cave, thus depriving the world of light.

Luckily, the other Gods and Goddesses were able to lure her out and thus restore light to the world once more.

A trip to the Takachiho Shrine to see a cultural dance in regards to Amaterasu was indeed a pleasant experience.

Takachiho is also known as a power spot, a place of deep religious importance and natural beauty.

In fact, a trip into Takachiho Gorge radiates a spiritual energy not to be missed.

The Gorge, is a place of outstanding beauty.

There are many different hiking trails , some easy and others quite challenging. I took a couple of the hikes and found them to be quite doable for the over 60 person with no limitations on mobility.

The magnificent Manai Falls can be viewed from atop the cliffs or down on the water in a boat. Either way, they are stunning.

The autumn colours of the ginkgo, maple and rowan trees are absolutely incredible. There are no words really to describe the beauty of the leaves.

Takachiho, my favourite place that I have been so far. The little town itself, with its quaint shops and friendly people. The unhurried pace of life here is just perfect.

Enjoy the Sea of Clouds from Kunimigaoka Observatory. Watch the sun rise above them for an out of world experience.

Moving on and a car trip to Mount Aso, Japan’s largest active volcano. This is in the Kumamoto Prefecture. An easy walk to the Observatory, wheelchair friendly as well, and one can look down at the farms and houses nestled on the crater floor. Last eruption of Mt Aso was in 2016 so I am not sure if I would like to live down there.

The scenery around the Mount is mainly fertile grasslands and rocky outcrops.

A horse ride around the outer rim of the Mount was a lovely way to explore a little more of the countryside.

Those who are fitter than I could enjoy a pushbike ride around the same area.

Lunch was at the El Patio horse riding facility and was surprisingly American style. Hamburgers, chilli beef and fries. Quite different from anything I had eaten previously and as always it was delicious.

The food on offer in Japan is second to none. Such a wide variety of tempting and tasty dishes.

I would love to return for a foodies tour.

Japan the most amazing country I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. It is extremely clean, safe, and easy to navigate your way around.

Put it on your list all you over 60’s. You will not be disappointed.

My Town

Nyah is a sleepy little town nestled on the banks of the mighty Murray River in Northern Victoria.

I love it because of the peacefullness and beauty of the mallee region. It has been home to me for around 30 years. I was born and raised on the NSW side of the river but Nyah was to main shopping town.

My name is Jennifer , I have 5 children, 6 grandchildren and 1 great grandchild. Nome of them live near to me but they all love coming here to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Over the years I have done many things. Being a Mother and then a Foster parent were probably the most challenging, but most rewarding jobs I have had.

I am a qualified Hairdresser, and worked as such for a number of years.

I also worked as a Cook at the Sydney Opera House as well as many other locations around the world.

A respite worker, court counsellor and childminder are also jobs I have had.

I love to crochet, self taught a couple of years ago, love to cook and garden as well.

I am currently single.

When my Father passed away in 1990, I moved back to Nyah to care for my Mother. My 3 youngest and I moved into the house and Mum bought a granny flat which was set up next to the house.

This arrangement worked well.

Nyah is a kind of sleepy little town about 365 kilometres north west of Melbourne.

It has lots of character about it and there is good fishing and bushwalking to be had around the area.

IN 1914, at the edge of the Nyah/ Vinifera forest, is a spot where the country’s first commercial rice crop was grown. A man called Jo Takasuka planted it ans thus started a new industry for Australia.

The road into the forest is aptly named Takasuka road.

Nyah has a monthly market, fishing comps and also a large rec reserve where Grey Nomads can camp and chill out for a while.

Whilst Nyah does not have any significant events, the nearby City of Swan Hill has a lot to offer.

Swan Hill has monthly Farmers markets, great racing events, the main one being the Swan Hill Cup in June each year.

There is also the local Almond Blossom festival, Sea Lake Tyrell tours and many other events each year.

The best thing to do in Nyah is to go down to the river bank, chill out and watch the birds and other animals going about their day.

A couple of kilometres down the road is the old heritage town of Nyahwest .There is an opportunity shop, (pick up a bargain) and a mens shed at Nyahwest, as well as a Supermarket,Chemist and Engineering workshop.

A good cup of coffee can be had at either of the two Service Staions at Nyah.

For finer dining, a trip to the nearby Tooleybuc Club, or into Swan Hill whee restaurants and cafes are in abundance.

My fav is Princess of Ming Chinese Restaurant or for a delicious coffe and vanilla slice you cannot go past the Swan Hill Bakery.

A cafe with a view of the Murray River, and awesome breakfasts is called Spoons. Set in the Riverside park it is a scenic and peaceful spot to relax and enjoy the great food.

Riverside Park also has a Food and Wine festival each year.

There are many wineries in the vicinity of Nyah, as well as citrus groves and Olive plantations. Nearby Boundary Bend Olive grove produces the world famous Cobram Estate Olive Oil.

Andrew Peace Winery is a must for wine buffs. These wines regularly win best wine at the Melbourne show and other shows.

It is free to visit the winery.

For under $20 take a tour of the pioneer settlement, sitting on the banks of the Murray in Swan Hill. It is a step back in time. A paddleboat ride is also a must do.

On a hot summers day, Lake Boga is an iddylic place to cool off. There are water sports galore on the Lake as well as a museum of Flying Boats from WW2.

In winter, rug up and go to a local footy match or a night at the trots.

There are several clubs around the area, all good for a night out. Some have live music, others a DJ where you can dance the night away regardless.

A night at the movies is also available. The sound and light show at the Pioneer Settlement is well worth checking out.

Best restaurant for a special feed would have to be Java Spice. Not cheap but worth paying the extra dollar.

With friendly people, a huge area of interesting activities and pleasant climate, Nyah is where my heart is.

On a recent hike through the World Heritage Shiretoko National Park, I briefed on what to do if a large brown bear approached.

My intrepid guide said you must stand still and remain calm. I will protect you he said, do not worry. Yeah right, do not worry, remain calm.

Whatever you do don’t run. You will be safe with me he added. Ok, so I was a little bit dubious as to how he wasgoing to defend me. Was he going to sacrifice himself to the bear or what.

I suddenly had visions of a 500kg ball of brown fluff galloping towards me at 30 k’s an hour. With teeth bared and looking decidedly hungry. Oh yes, remain calm and stand still.

Easier said than done I would imagine. No doubt I would pass out. This would be a good thing as bears are not atracted to a prostrate human, or so I have read somewhere.

The sheer beauty of the surrounding forest momentarily took my mind away from thoughts of bear attack.

The sound of leaves falling, plop plop upon the ground conjured up images of a stalking hungry beast.

The guide stopped beside a large tree which had huge scdatch marks on its trunk. Bear scratches he said. Bear marking his territory.

Oh my, we were standing in the bears living room. What if came home?

Would he be happy to have visitors?

My heart was racing at 100 miles an hour , mind in overload at the very thought.

Stop! I told myself. There was no news of any bear attacking in recent times.

Finally I gathered my thoughts and continued on. The beauty of the forest soon took over any thoughts of bears.

Giant maple trees, vibrant red in colour, ginkgo trees with their brilliant yellow leaves aswell as birch and rowan trees in similar colours.

Lots of Sika Deer quietly grazing added to the peacefullness. I saw where woodpeckers pecked their holes,hoping to find insects. A red fox lay basking in the sunshine. Birds sang sweetly in the treetops.

A truly magical experience, all thoughts of bears erased from my mind.

Kyushu. A mythical mysterious wonderland of sights that exceeded my wildest dreams.

This relatively unknown, to Australians, destination is the south westernmost of Japan’s main islands. It has a mostly subtropical climate so not as cool as Hokkaido in winter.

With active volcanoes, beaches, and natural hot springs it is a destination to put on your list.

Beppu, in the Oita prefecture, is home to more than 2000 Onsen, (hot springs.)

It is also home to the famous Beppu Hells.(Jigoku)

There are seven Hells in Bepu and I was lucky enough to visit three of them.

The first is the Blood Hells (Chinoike -Jigoku). The water in the ponds of this hell is red, hence the name blood hells. It is extremely hot at around 78C so one would not want to touch it. The area is wheelchair friendly and easy to get about for an older person.

Next door is the Oniishibozu Jigoku. These are bubbling hot mud which look like the shaven heads of monks. Surrounded by stunning autumn colours and green foliage these are a true wonderland.

Umi Jigoku, the Sea Hell, is perhaps the most beautiful. Steamimg hot with a deep cobalt blue colour makes for an extremely pleasant experience. Ponds full of lotus flowers abound as do the trees of autumn colours. The leaves of the lotus plant are strong enough to support a small child. There are a couple of blood ponds here as well. All boiling hot.

A particular delicacy at the Hells is a steamed custard pudding with caramel base. Quite delicious.

Not too far away from Beppu is the town of Matama. Unbelievable sunsets can be viewed from Matama Beach. Photographers from all over the world gather at this beach all hoping for that perfect shot.

A short drive to the farming community of Tashimunosho and one can see ancient rice paddies and farms nestled between the towering hills. These areas are all easily accessed by over 60’s, mobile or not. There are no long hikes in Beppu.

Leaving Beppu, take a train ride on the Sea Gaia to Nobeoka in the Miyazaki Prefecture.

Up big mountains, along the seashore and through farming areas and small towns. This is a great trip.

Takachiho, in my opinion is the jewel in Japan’s crown. I was in awe of everything I laid eyes on. From the deep gorges to the small towns. The autumn colours on the mountain sides and along the streets had to be seen to be believed.

Once again the pristine waters meandering through the Takachiho Gorge were unbelievable.

The vibrant red leaves of the Maple, a native tree of Japan, the brilliant yellow of the ginkgo, Tokyo’s symbol tree, the almost as brilliant yellow of the larch tree, orange red cherry trees and the red of the Rowan tree. The deep green of the cedars. A sight to behold.

A boat trip on the crystal waters of the Takachiho gorge to see the beautiful Manai Waterfall is another must do activity. There are many steps down to the boat so not suitable for those with limited mobility, but never fear. The falls can be viewed from the bridge above.

Takachiho village is a lovely little village in which to take a night time stroll. The winding streets and small shops and cafes are indeed interesting.

Takachiho Shrine , located on the edge of the town centre is a beautiful shrine nestled between a stand of tall cedars.

It is the site of one of the most important legends in Japanese mythology.

Amaterasu, the Shinto Sun Goddess, became so outraged at her brothers cruel tricks that she hid herself in a cave and thus deprived the world of her life giving light.

A cultural performance about how the other Gods lured her out and thus restored light to the world is indeed an amazing experience.

A few hours drive away is Japan’s largest active volcano, Mount Aso. It stands in the Aso Kuju National Park in Kumamoto prefecture.

Mt Aso is amongst the largest volcanoes in the world.

Enjoy a horse ride around the outer rim, or for the more flexible , a pushbike ride.

There is a lookout high above the crater. Amazingly the floor of the volcano is dotted with homes and farms , all very fertile because of the soil. I do not think I would like to live down there though. It could erupt at any given moment. The last eruption was in 2016.

Still very interesting to see this place.

Kyushu is thought to be the birthplace of Japan. It is where it all began and a more amazing island I have yet to see.

Japan – The Land of the Rising Sun

So caĺled because Nihon and Nippon literally mean the Sun’s Origin and so translated to the Land of the Rising Sun.

My first visit to Japan, 40 years ago, was to the bustling metropolis of Tokyo. I was visiting a sibling and had a week there enroute to Australia.

Memories of mountains , tall buildings, concrete footpaths and well suited men hurrying to work have stuck with me for all of those years. Not to mention seeing the thousands of people being packed into trains by pushers, men with broom like sticks, literally pushing everyone into the train.

Fast forward to 2018 and those memories are pushed way back into the furthermost corner of my memory bank.

If you have never been to Japan, please put it on your travel list.

It is a land of towering mountains and deep gorges. Of heavily wooded forests,unbelievable autumn foliage ,stunning clifftops, crystal clear water ,and lakes. Birdlife abounds in these pristine lakes.

Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan’s islands is home to volcanoes, natural hot springs (onsen), and fantastic ski areas during winter.The Shiretoko Peninsular is also home to Brown Bears. Large furry creatures who make their home in the Shiretoko World Heritage Park as well as the adjoining Shiretoko National Park.

“Shiretoko” is derived from the Ainu ( indigenous people of Japan) word “sir etok” meaning a place where the earth protrudes, or the end of the earth.

A 4 hour hike around the five lakes in Shiretoko World Heritage Park is well worth the sore legs experienced afterwards.

The lakes were formed long ago after an eruption of nearby Mt Io.

The lakes are fed by underground springs which means the water is crystal clear. A totally unspoilt natural area that is jaw dropping to say the least.

This area is suitable for hiking by over 60 year olds with no mobility issues.

Those with mobiliy issues are also catered for with a shorter, 800 metre elevated wooden platform boardwalk. An area on which to walk and see one of the lakes and the stunning snow capped mountains surrounding the lakes. Also

from this area ,atop the towering cliffs , the Sea of Okhotsk can be viewed, without any damage to the fragile ecosystem. The boardwalk is free to use and is wheelchair friendly.

In wintertime the drift ice from further north arrives at the Sea of Okhotsk and walking tours out onto the ice are conducted.

Another hike is the Shiretoko National Park animal watching tour. This is slightly more challenging and not for those with mobility issues. A 4 hour hike through the forest of Birch, Mongolian Oak, Ginkgo Maple and Cedar trees is amazing. One is always aware that one is walking through Bear territory and the nature guides call out and clap to let the bears know they have visitors.

Hikers are briefed on what to do in case they are confronted by a bear. Stay calm, do not run and retreat back to where you came started the hike.

All well and good, but I had images of a 500kg ball of brown fluff galloping towards me at 30 k’s and hour and thought , no way I could remain calm. In fact I am sure I would have passed out. Probably a good thing too as Bears are not interested in stationary bodies.

I need not have worried though as no bears were sighted. As scary as they sound, I was secretly hoping to see a bear in the wild. Just not too close.

Other animals encountered are Red Fox and lots of Sika Deer.

There are many birds including several species of Woodpecker, Stellers SeaEagke, the white tailed Sea Eagle and this park is also home to the worlds largest owl, the Blakistons Fish Owl.

There are over 50 species of mammal here and 280 kinds of birds.

Shiretoko is indeed a nature lovers paradise.

During autumn the Salmon run the rivers in Shiretoko. They run up river to spawn and then die. Salmon watching is suitable for limited mobility visitors.

Salmon is a very popular dish in Shiretoko and clams are harvested and enjoyed as well.

A good base for all of these activities in the Kiki Shiretoko Natural Resort in the small town of Utoro.

The hotel has many Onsen where hot spring bathing can be enjoyed.

The water from the thermals is full of nutrients and excellent for soaking in after a long hike.

There are hundreds of Onsen dotted about Hokkaido, most towns have a public foot bath as well. These foot baths can be a godsend for those with sore feet.

A visit to an Izakaya ( Japanese Pub) is well worth the time. There is an array of diferent foods on offer and the coziness of the Izakaya makes for a memorable time.

The people of Japan are some of the most friendly , respectful people I have ever encountered. They will go out of their way to please and always with a smile.

I would recomment an English speaking guide if visiting Hokaido as English is not widely spoken and the guides are experts in what type of tours or eating experiences the tourist may be looking for.

On my time in Hokkaido I did not see any other Australian tourist . I

asked myself why.

The answer I think, is that like myself, most Australians are unaware of this beautiful and intriguing destination.

Vanilla slice, love them or hate them.

Australian vanilla slice is a snack consisting of a layer of vanilla yumminess sandwiched between two layers of light and crisp pastry. It is similar to a french mille-feuille.

The New Zealand version is more like a custard square, usually with passionfruit icing. Not so nice.

In Austria it is called a Cremeschnitte. Maybe this is where the term Snot Block originated, sounds a bit like it.

What ever there are called though,

I love them, and cannot get enough of them.

My quest to find the perfect vanilla slice started many years ago.

I have travelled Australia, far and wide, and, along the way ,have stopped at almost every bakery in my search for the perfect vanilla slice.

There are many imposters out there masquerading as the true blue slice.

Some are nothing more than a lumpy heap of custard sandwiched between some soggy pastry.

Others are a little more refined, but still none the less, are custard and pastry.

A true vanilla slice has no custard in it. It is not sickly gluggy yellow stuff.

A true vanilla slice is almost white. It is creamy. Vanillary, is that even a word?

The pastry is thin and crisp..

A true vanilla slice is something that keeps you wanting more.

It keeps you always on the look out for the next best one.

Even the thought of it brings saliva to ones mouth. Not unlike a dog drooling over a juicy bone.

My local town has three major bakeries.

Number one has a vanilla slice which is somewhat akin to a jelly baby in so much as the texture of it is rubbery and stretchy.

Goodness only knows how they make it.

Number two has a somewhat custardy looking filling and soggy pastry. Not something that woukd inspire you to go back for seconds.

Number three has the most vanilla slice like treat. The pastry is a little thick, the icing is thick, sweet and pink, but the filling is quite creamy and not a hint of custard powder to be had.

Despite this, there is no perfect slice to be had there.

In Queensland I sampled some pretty good examples of slice. The best being at Morayfield Plaza. The slicd was almost perfect, just the pastry was a little thick but still nice and crunchy.

Severalmother samplings in Qld were not too bad.

Down through NSW I found no good slices. They were all custard squares. Some had an extra layer of cream, I think to make it more palatable, but it did not work for me.

I am fussy.

Back in Victoria, about 150 kilometres from home, I read about the Bakery that had won the annual Vanilla Slice challenge.

I had to go, surely this was going to be the most perfect slice.

I set off one morning, on my quest.

When I arrived at the town, and it was a tiny town, I headed straight for the Bakery.

There were people and cars everywhere. All seeking what I was seeking.

The were trays and trays of delicious looking slices , there must have been hundreds of them. All were flying out the door with great speed.

Stop looking, I told myself. Just buy one and try it.

I was not disappointed. My search was over.

This was the perfect slice.

Two sheets of super thin crispy pastry. The filling was to die for. Light, creamy, full of flavour not gluggy or any hint of custard . Icing thin and not too sweet.

This was what I had been looking for all my life.

I was in vanilla slice heaven.

My Great Grandmother was named Ellen. she was born in the UK in 1868..

When Ellen was a young child the Family decided to immigrate to Australia After a lengthy boat ride, in mostly squalid conditions, the family arrived in NSW.

Great Great Grandfather, Ellens father, took up farming in the Armidale, New England area of NSW.

He was a very successful farmer and became an extremely wealthy man. Family life was good, the children all had food and clothing and led a happy life. Much better than they had back in the Mother Country.

When Ellen was just 18 years of age, she met a handsome young man and fell in love right away.

This strapping young man was good looking and worked hard as a labourer. However, he had a dark secret.

His own Father had been sent out from Ireland as a Convict. He had not committed a serious crime, just stolen a loaf of bread to feed his starving family. This news was to be kept a secret from Ellens family as they were “Upper Crust” so to speak. They would never tolerate a son of a criminal becoming one of their family members.

The courtship progressed and Ellens family quite liked this young bloke. Until, someone let the cat out of the bag about this fellows heritage.

All hell broke loose and Ellen was forbidden to see the young man again. She had other ideas though and continued to meet him in secret. This went on for a year or two until once again someone let her Father know. Talk about gossipers, how terrible it was.

By this time, Ellen was 21 and able to make her own mind up. Her Father gave her the word, stay with him and you are banished from our family. Never to be spoken of and never to visit us again. What a tough old bugger he was. He kept his word though and Ellen made her choice.

She and her true love moved away and became married in 1887. The couple were very happy , apart from the fact that Ellen had been banished and all rights to any inheritance from her wealthy father all forsaken.

They had children, first a son and then a daughter. The son died from unknown circumstances when he was just 19. The daughter grew up to be a lovely young woman who would become my Grandmother.When Great Grandad passed away, Ellen came and lived with my Grandmother, her daughter. I remember Ellen. She always wore black. Always in mourning, perhaps for the loss of her husband, or maybe the loss of her family back in the countryside. I know that her parents never knew of anything that happened in her life after Armidale. I find that very sad.

Mum was a tormented soul.For as far back as I can remember, Mum was always running down people and gossipping about them.

As a kid, I could not understand why she would do this it just did not make sense to me. The people in question seemed lovely.

Mum never seemed to be happy with her life. She was constantly shouting at us kids and giving poor Dad a hard time.

She was so unhappy. Her unhappiness caused many problems for her .

It was not until I was in my fourties that I found out why she was like this.

After Dad passed away, Mum and I were talking about a cousin, this cousin was adopted and I mentioned to Mum that it must be very sad, not knowing who ones real parents were. Mum then told me her story.

It went like this.

When Mum was 32, her and Dad decided to go to the UK and Europe for a holiday. The Queens Coronation was about to happen and they wanted to be in the UK at that time. Get caught up in the activities and celebrations so to speak.

Mum applied for her passport. Dad already had one from before they were married.

There was a bit of a hiccup though. It seemed that Mum did not exist. No records were held of her birth. None in her known name anyway.

Grandma was summoned and had to come clean with a few secrets she had been holding close.

The man Mum knew as her Father, was in fact, not her Father.

It seems Gran had been a bit naughty and had given birth to Mum out of wedlock. Back in the 1920’s this was quite a scandalous thing to happen to a poor girl. Even worse was when the unwed Mother decided to keep her child. Poor Gran was indeed an outcast of society.

In due course the paperwork was sorted and Mum got her passport.

Dad was not amused to know his wife was illegitimate but he loved her and accepted it. He did ask Mum not to tell anyone though.

A few years after Dad passed away, Mum decided to delve into her real Fathers identity.

There were more than a few shocks to be had.

Gran had been seeing a much older man, a travelling salesman , married with a family.

Oh dear, naughty Gran.

When Gran found out she was pregnant, she ceased the affair, not telling her suitor that she was pregnant. She did not want to disrupt his family any further.

To her credit, Gran kept my Mum and raised her on her own. It was not an easy task back in those days.

Mums real Father was not a very nice man. He was a Lieutenant in the Light Horse Brigade but was dishonorably discharged for failing to obey orders.

More bad news came to light. The old philanderer had yet another mistress. This young girl also had a child to him. She told him about his daughter and it led to a massive court case to see who would get custody of the child.

Things were going against the young girl so in a brief ajournment, outside the Redfern Courthouse, she shot him dead.

I have the newspaper clippings of the incident. I know not what happened to the young woman or the child. A child who would have been my mothers halfsister.

No wonder Mum was such an unhappy soul.

All of this was just too much a burden to carry.

That little girl would be 86 if she is still alive. Sadly Mum passed away, never knowing her real Father or her half sister.